London-based design duo Teatum Jones made a triumphant return to the capital, a week after winning the prestigious International Woolmark Prize in New York.Their collection - which remained true to their reputation for innovative fabrics and prints - was a subtle evolution of the offering which won them the $100,000 award, whose past winners include Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent.
Designers Rob Jones and Catherine Teatum begin each season with intensive research around "a human story" which then inspires the colours, silhouettes and fabrics of the final pieces.For AW16, they looked to Teatum???s native Ireland and the story of an English nun, Agnes Morrogh-Bernard, who helped the people of Foxford, County Mayo to overcome famine and poverty of the 1890s by establishing a mill where they created intricately beautiful blankets and shawls to keep themselves warm but also to sell.
???We loved the idea even at the worst of times, there was still that necessity and instinct to make things ornate???Jones said in a preview earlier this week, pointing to moodboard pictures of women gathered outside derelict cottages wrapped in their colourful creations.
Teatum Jones has focused on transforming this dissertation-like study into ???everything you need from a seasonless modern wardrobe.???They analysed the sales books from their personal order evenings to see which pieces had piqued the interest of family and friends and Catherine reflected on the designs which she reaches for again and again.The result was a collection full of bold statement pieces which will add instant zing to plainer staples.
Here???s our pick of the snazziest items to covet for a maximalist AW16 update:
The jazzy skirtThe mohair stripes on this chic pencil skirt were combed away to create a fuzziness which softened the bright hues and graphic print.
The alternative evening dressWith its deep pockets and shawl-like neckline, the windowpane check column dress is at once easygoing and elegant for evening while the stepped, flared hem lends an offbeat kick.???Black and white make anything modern??? said Jones.
The loud shirtA silk jacquard shirt with fabulously flared and frilled extra-long cuffs came in vivid traditional Irish emerald green.We???d consider dressing this down with jeans or wearing open as a jacket with a white tee.
A can???t-miss-it coatFly in the face of the sensible reasoning that coats should come in neutral colours so that they ???go??? with everything and instead opt for a printed style in a rich palette of blues to bring together a look the moment you throw it on.
A hand-knitted jumperOversized Aran-style jumpers, knitted by Teatum???s sister-in-law???s mum added a casual ease to proceedings.In lieu of traditional cream, Teatum Jones??? red and blue version is ultra striking.
Stars at London Fashion Week