It is customary for Ralph Lauren, the patriarch of American designers, to close New York Fashion Week in style.And his AW16 show was no different.
Ralph has a big few years ahead.2017 sees the brand celebrating its 50th anniversary, but whilst celebrating the past, they are also looking to the future.The designer stepped down as CEO of his own label last year, making way for Stefan Larsson, former H&M executive and president of American high street label Old Navy.Quite a departure for the luxury fashion house, and which only begged one question:Will Ralph Lauren turn to the fast-fashion, See-No-Buy-Now model, which so many of his counterparts are shifting to?And indeed they are; subtly at the bottom of the show notes the brand announced that come Friday morning you will be able to shop a "curated collection" of the runway looks.
Lauren showed in one of Manhattan"s many warehouses.But this wasn"t any old warehouse.The set resembled a grand private residence; the runway was paved with limestone flagstones while mahogany door surrounds and an oversized lantern made the 500 person space feel strangely intimate.Even the music - classical strings - compiled by Lauren"s son Andrew, wouldn"t have been out of place at an "At Home" drinks.
Lauren"s collection services that high-end lifestyle too.Taupe trouser suits in classic tailoring fabrics, worn with a shirt and tie, had echoes of Annie Hall - fitting perhaps, as Diane Keaton???s jacket and tie in the film were purchased in Ralph Lauren by the film???s wardrobe department.Loden green knitwear was paired with a tweed sports jacket; some fair isle thrown in for good measure.This was Annie???s wardrobe for the country house.
When it came to dressing for town it was a wholly different feel.Black leather minidresses, frock coats worn over heavily ruffled shirts and brocade trouser suits made up the core of her city wardrobe.The blue velvet jacket worn with burnished metallic jeans will go down a storm with Lauren"s brand-loyal customers.
And for the evening?Ralph did what Ralph does best: velvet gowns perfect for any political fundraiser and a floor length number that seemed to resemble liquid gold; no doubt an Oscar red carpet nominee.
In his collection, Ralph Lauren proved he knows and understands the wants and needs of his clients; be it an outfit for town or country, a kitchen supper or a charity ball, his collection had it all.
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